3G (HSDPA) mod

I can't say for sure because I dont have that model but if you already have the mini pci-e connector and no sim reader you should be able to use a novatel eu850d card which has an onboard sim reader. I used one in a a150 with no problems so it should work in a d250 if it has the mini pci-e connector.

 

thanks for the suggestion. only issue is I can't seem t o find that particular model to buy. I'll keep trying and at the same time looking for other devices that also have an integrated sim slot.

thanks again

 

I added a standard sim reader to the D250. It worked fine.
viewtopic.php?f=43&t=13518&start=10#p96627
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=15922&hilit=d250

 

the pic in your 1st link doesnt seem to work anymore, is there any way you can post it again? Also the link to mobilix doesnt work anymore either.

As for soldering a sim slot onto my board, I am definately not proficient in soldering so I'd have to find someone local here in Ottawa who could do it for me for a reasonable price. I'm going to see if any of the people I know are any good at soldering or know someone who is..

thanks

 

All the pictures I post here are deleted by the forum. The message I get is that "Pictures are not welcomed".

 

thats too bad.... would have liked to see the work you had done.

thanks anyway!!

 

Hi,

I went ahead and tried this mod along with the Bluetooth mod(with a mini USB Hub in between)

However the system powered ON twice. But once i went back and tried giving finishing touches to my mod. I retouched
the 5V (off in standby) chip trace from tnkgrl's original blutooth modd for a cleaner(than before) solder. I don't remember if i held the iron too long against this component pin, in the process may have blown this component, Which i am not sure about.
I even soldered the SIM Slot to the motherboard at the 4 points applying some pressure over that area.

Now my motherboard does not power-ON no activity on the power button LED when pressed. The only activity i can see is when plugging IN the Battery or the AC supply, and notice a blink of the power button LED for a fraction of a second. After that nothing.

Can the experts here help me identify the component(chip encircled) in the photograph. As to what Chip is this and will this affect Power-ON if faulty ???

Photograph can be found here : http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp18 ... tcheck.jpg

And my sincere gratitude to JerryT from this community for helping me prepare for this modd. A really helpful Guy. Not to forget vBlack too(who helped on some pinout connections.

thanks in advance !!!

 

PM me your email address and I will email you the complete AOA110/150 motherboard schmatic, then on page 28 is the component labeled PQ18.

Anything which shorts power will cause fail to post.

 

hi to all,
I'vebought a Novatel EU850D card for my AOA110L that is now dead. Now I have an AOAD150 and a question for you: does my new D150 has a free miniPCI free slot just like the D250?!? Before i open my small friend, any suggestions?!?

thanks a lot
Gianni

 

You are the man JerryT,
thanks !!! I have that PDF and could locate the component PQ18 on page 28.

1. Is it normal for this 5V pin(of this component) to show a connection to the micro component on the right(with its top pin) marked in the photograph ?

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp18 ... check3.jpg

if the connection between the 2 pins of these 2 components is not normal, is there a way to check which one is faulty ?

2. Is there a way to check if this component is working or blown on my MB ? Or How do i check if its shorted to something which could be affecting the power ON of my aspire one ?

3. Any idea what this component is designed for ?

4. Is Replacing this component a good option in trying to resuscitate my aspire one ?

5. Is this easily available, if so what is the name of the component the sellers would understand ?

6. In case this is not readily available(which i am guessing) then DOES ANYBODY AT THIS FORUM HAVE A WORKING COMPONENT WILLING TO PART WITH ??? ( OUT OF THEIR TEST BOARDS OR dead boards for reasons involving other than this component-in other words a working component )

thanks again jerryT

 

My guess is that it is a switch and a current limiter. Part number is listed in schematic as A0304

 

JerryT

Reads as A4TA & 2G written vertically on the chip.
5VPCU
AO3404
or
PQ18 AO3404

If its a current limiter and a switch(If this chip is blown-up). Then the MB not powering ON is pretty much possible isn't it ?

Do you have a spare working chip out of faulty MB you may have ?
Or
Any suggestions how to procure one and attempt a replacement to see if it rectifies my power-on problem ?

 

BTW which country are you from JerryT ?

 

JerryT you are right !!!

Some information on the chip...

Datasheet : http://www.aosmd.com/pdfs/datasheet/AO3404.pdf

"The AO3404/L uses advanced trench technology to
provide excellent RDS(ON) and low gate charge. This
device may be used as a load switch or in PWM
applications."


the reading on the chip A4T4-2G as written earlier was incorrect.

This is what it correctly reads on the chip "A4F4, 2P " found it from the below source.

http://www2.electronicproducts.com/Acer ... xt-78.aspx
Another Component Parts list source (for aspire one) - very handy in times like these.


There are totally 4 such chips on an aspireone MB.
2 on the top side and 2 on the bottom side.

I hope the one in discussion right now is the one on top. Right Jerry ?

ALL THE ABOVE INFORMATION POINTS OUT THAT, IF THIS CHIP IF FAULTY, IT MAY AFFECT THE POWER-ON OF THE MOTHERBOARD.

An attempt to replace could prove worth the try !!! What say Jerry ???

Provided somebody over here are generous enough to donate an untampered chip off their dead/spares motherboards.( provided the bluetooth modd has not been attempted on that motherboard to draw the 5V trace out of this chip)

ANYBODY ???

 

There are 2 of these components on the top side of the motherboard.
Anybody interested in donating ???

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp18 ... quired.jpg

???

 

I can not say if this will fix your motherboard.

What other soldering mods did you do to the motherboard?

I am in Miami Florida.

There is a guy on this forum selling parts off a dead motherboard.
viewtopic.php?f=79&t=9464
I have bought from him.

The simple fix is to get another motherboard. Hard to fix these motherboards if some chip was shorted, during mods.

 

This may be a silly question but are you sure you havn't just popped the fuse (labelled PF1 on the bottom of the motherboard near the charge socket)?

P.S. JerryT - Any chance of getting a copy of that schematic please?

 

First I'll tell you that if you muck it up further, don't blame me ....

Use the datasheet to identify the device leads ... First test is to check for 5 V on the Drain with the battery or AC plugged in (Don't hit the power switch yet) so we can see if we have potential at the MOSFET switch. If there isn't 5V on the Drain then the problem is in the 3.3/5V regulator circuit ahead of the MOSFET switch

If you have 5V on the Drain then put your lead on the Gate and hit the power button and see if you see 3-5V on the Gate telling the MOSFET to turn on. *If* you have 5 V on the drain and 3.3-5V on the gate after you hit the power switch then most likely you have a toasted MOSFET. If you don't see either of the 2 voltages then the problem is elsewhere

If you do any soldering on a computer motherboard like this you should use a 3 prong grounded tip soldering pencil like the 15W model Radio Shack sells. (64-2051) In a pinch you can clip a jumper lead onto the tip and ground the other end but you'll eventually toast your jumper clip. (I do this mainly when the 15W pencil isn't heavy enough like on a big ground pad) I'd also recommend using Radio Shack's silver solder (64-013) on surface mount devices and grab a flux pen (Unfortunately Rat Shack no longer carries one) and solder wick (64-2090) too while you are at Radio Shack. A solder sucker (64-2098) might come in handy also.

When I taught a digital lab at a local technical college I used to have students bring in an old PCB from a junk piece of electronics, then I would have them remove 10 components, clean up the solder pads and resolder the parts back in. I'd spend a whole day (3 hrs) or two having them do nothing but that and then once or twice a week I'd have them do 10 components or whatever they could do in 15 minutes .... Everyone that would finish the semester would walk away with good soldering (and just as important for service, desoldering) skills. (They'd also make a 6 IC 4 zone alarm system) If you do decide to try to replace that transistor (Make sure it's really dead first) I'd find an old PCB with some surface mount transistors in a similar package to practice on and save yourself some potential grief by honing your skills on something that doesn't matter. Luckily that SMT transistor is fairly large sized (for surface mount) and shouldn't be too hard to work with (Soldering is a basic skill but surface mount rework is an art)

http://netbook2chartplotter.blogspot.com Don't forget to feed my albino catfish

 

So from now on we just mail our broken aspires along with some beer vouchers to LongJohn412 to fix :lol:

 

Hey great Andy & LongJohn412...

"This may be a silly question but are you sure you havn't just popped the fuse (labelled PF1 on the bottom of the motherboard near the charge socket)? "

Let me check this.

LongJohn can you please be a little more specific at the testing cos i am not an electronics guys, so circuits are still a little over the head (i mean basics)

A Detailed help would be most appreciated.

thanks