3G (HSDPA) mod

Please PM me your email ID and i'll forward you the schematics.

I found a component labelled PF1 a semi-transparent-White-coated-surface-mount-capacitor-type with 5 written on it. Hope thats the right component i should me looking for. Anyways checked with my multimeter from non-ground Lead from the charged socket to both the sides of this PF1 component and it shows connected / beeps showing continuity.
Does that mean the fuse is alright ?

@LongJohn412

"Use the datasheet to identify the device leads ... First test is to check for 5 V on the Drain with the battery or AC plugged in (Don't hit the power switch yet) so we can see if we have potential at the MOSFET switch. If there isn't 5V on the Drain then the problem is in the 3.3/5V regulator circuit ahead of the MOSFET switch

If you have 5V on the Drain then put your lead on the Gate and hit the power button and see if you see 3-5V on the Gate telling the MOSFET to turn on. *If* you have 5 V on the drain and 3.3-5V on the gate after you hit the power switch then most likely you have a toasted MOSFET. If you don't see either of the 2 voltages then the problem is elsewhere"

i have located the device leads, the single lead on the other side is the 'D-Drain' and the left pin of the device facing towards me is the 'G-Gate'.......the lead on the right is where i had soldered my modd wire and possibly toasted it. Its marked as 'S' !!!

I don't know how to check the 5V on the drain, i have a multimeter though, but don't know which settings to turn my multimeter to and where to place the multimeter leads. (like i said weak at basics. )

need help.

 

You'll be looking for 5 Vdc so the 20Vdc range is what you want. Place the black lead on a ground (Metal part of a USB socket should do) and the other lead on the Drain and you should read about 5V

You can do the same thing to check the fuse, ground one lead and probe both ends of the fuse with the other, you should see about 18-19V on BOTH ends but a quicker way to test that is to put the battery pack in, no AC attached and it should work even if that fuse is blown ... That's a 5 amp fuse so you'd have to screw up really bad to blow a 5 amp fuse with a power supply rated at 1.6 amps

 

LongJohn412

thanks for the time and effort to help me learn things

checked fuse : 18-19v recording at both pins with adapter connected(not battery)

However as my motherboard does not switch ON at all. i will not be able to measure the pins of the MOSFET(i currently suspect to have roasted during the bluetooth mod) but instead i find another similar MOSFET(AO3404 chip) just beside the fuse and going by the pin description drawn out of the datasheet. I don't seem to record any voltage at the drain(with on lead on a ground point) pin, Instead at the gate pin i am recording 14.4V (with the black lead grounded to the nearby point)

So does it mean that the problem lies with the regulator circuit ahead of this MOSFET chip ??? OR If this chip is actually roasted instead of the one i meddled with for the mod ???
:?:

 

MOSFET pinouts i refered : http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp18 ... sistor.jpg

the left pin out of the 2 facing me, is which recorded the 14.4v i have stated above.

 

There are 4 other AO3404 chips on either side of the motherboard, except for the one close to the fuse i don't record any voltage at these 4. As my Motherboard does not power ON to check it post switching ON !!!

 

after learning the correct way to measure voltages to components.
I tried to test the voltage readings of the neighboring components to the MOFSET which recorded 14.4V on its Gain.

Observations as follows...

1. Component : PL5 - records voltage on both its pins.
2. Component : PD5 - records voltage on both its pins.
3. Component : PD4 - records voltage on the right pin only, left pin no reading.

Other observations are that the right pins of all these 3 components show connected.

Not sure which one is a abnormality over here ?

 

Your input components seem to be OK, one is a diode for reverse voltage protection, the other is a zener diode used to hard clamp any voltage over 20 V and the inductor I can't find on my schemes but is probably just filtering added in a board revision.

I have seen mentioned on the board that every once in a while these will glitch the BIOS causing a no power up scenario like you are seeing and you need to 'dead flash' the bios with a USB thumbdrive to get it back. Personally I've never had to dead flash a BIOS with a USB thumbdrive but the procedure looks essentially the same as the old floppy disk method (Probably more reliable, floppy drives were notoriously glitchy) I think you should give this procedure a try first because if it's a BIOS problem then troubleshooting the power supply all day long will get you nowhere.

Heres the official Acer method: http://netbooks-us.custhelp.com/app/ans ... l/a_id/133

And here's one from a board member that fleshes out the procedure a little more: viewtopic.php?f=73&t=19748&p=111510&hilit=dead+flash+bios#p111510

If you search for 'dead flash bios' you get 16 pages of hits from this forum alone so this isn't all that uncommon and I would suggest you try this before we go any further. I know a have an old 512k thumbdrive I never use any more because it's too small and I'm going to load my up with the latest BIOS for my model and put it with my recovery kit

 

I've had the dead bios a few times but you usually at least get the green led under the power button lit up when that happens.

 

Even i was of the understanding that atleast the green LED under the power button should switch ON !!!
i would be glad to be wrong here

 

LongJohn412 this stays unanswered :?: :?: :?:

thanks

 

Not enough information to answer it, I have no idea what that MOSFET does without identifiying it, there are several in the power supply circuit .... 1.8V devices don't take well to having 5V on them without the 1.8V present first so several MOSFETS are used to synchronize the power up and power down sequence. Generally the larger 3404 MOSFETs are for power up and the lighter 2n7002 MOSFETs are used to discharge the capacitors on power down so a cap charged to 5V doesn't find it's discharge path through a 1.8V or 1.05V device after power down.

 

Is there anyway i can help identify. Let me know if i can find it from the MB.

thanks for all the help anyways LongJohn412.

 

Seems like i can't fix my MB the way i had been hoping for

Another query to the community...
With the SIM holder soldered(modded) in place, will the 3G modem work on the the wifi pcie slot as well or is limited to work only on the modded pcie slot ?

 

The Sim reader is wired to the 3G slot. It does not effect the WiFi slot.

You could wire a Sim reader to the WiFi slot, but the six wire would have to be routed on top of the motherboard and a location for the sim reader would still be required.

 

Thanks jerryT, you the man you sure are the 'encyclopedia or the Oracle' of the ever so lovable 'One'

hmmmm...has anybody successfully tried this ? anyways a complicated modd better left as it is.

Workaround - 1 (to use the wifi slot for 3G) ???

Also you get a SIM holder, the one sold here...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT

With this, Can the wifi pcie slot be made 3G workable ???

OR

Workaround - 2 (to use the wifi slot for 3G) ???

One of the sellers responded to this product ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... TQ:US:1123 ) inquiry as follows...

Is the above modem not dependent on a SIM ?, If yes !
Can this modem stand any chance of running on the wifi pcie slot (i mean does the wifi slots architecture support/detect/run this card ???)

As i have the "CDMA 1xEV-DO" service available in my location.

 

The wfi slot will run a 3G card, because the WiFi slot is both on the PCIe and USB busses.

Very cool product that add on sim reader (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT), but I am not sure the Sim Reader will fit inside a AOA model. Even if you cut a hole in the top cover/touchpad cover, the access to the Sim Reader would still be under the keyboard.

I don't know how a 3G modem could work with out a sim reader, so I don't know about your last item.

 

thanks Jerry,

This seller is from the US, if any body who has used a "Sierra Wireless WWAN MC5725 PCI-E 3G" card which is based on the "CDMA 1xEV-DO-Rel 0" platform, please post, if a SIM is needed or not !!!

I draw a strong hope from a small fact found in my location. The USB modems provided by the service providers running on the "CDMA 1xEV-DO-Rel 0" in my location do not require a SIM card, the USB modem provided by them comes ready with internet access out-of-the-box without a SIM card added to it anywhere.

So i am guessing that the above product ( Sierra Wireless WWAN MC5725 PCI-E Card 3G ) too may run in the same manner as the USB Modems in my location, As the seller too confirms that a SIM is not needed for this modem and that we need to contact the network provider to get it up and running.

Maybe they will associate/assign the IMEI number of this MC5725 modem to a certain mobile number account as well as add it to their white list or something like that, to enable internet access through it.

Wishful thinking
unless somebody who has used this card clarify to us on this thread.

 

Try a Novatel EU850D card , it has the sim reader built in

 

hi
can I make the same upgrade for my ONE D250?
that is to settle the mini card raider for sim card and to settle the mini connector pci express for the modem Sierra MC8775 HSPDA?
you can be done?
THANKS

 

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=13518&start=10#p96627