Rewiring power button?

I'm doing a case mod and one of the steps involved is relocating the power button to an existing switch on the case. I'm putting an AOA110 into a Nintendo NES.

Does anyone know which pins I would have to solder to? Also would I need to desolder the existing power button before doing so?

I looked around for a picture of the power button on the daughterboard but couldn't find one. From what I can see there are 2 pins on the bottom, 2 on top. The bottom ones are labeled SW2 (Switch 2?)

The Nintendo Power button has already been modified not to stay in when pressed down. I've already soldered two wires to the contact points for the switch. I just need to know where they go if anyone can help

 

I just borrowed a multimeter from a friend and tested it out myself. I found continuity between pins 3 and 4 while the power button is pressed, and no continuity when not pressed. Then to test if I had to desolder the existing switch to replace it with one of my own, I took a length of wire and put one end to pin 3, and one on pin 4, while the power cord was in. It booted.

So the answer is, if anyone else needs it (I saw an ancient thread a while back about the same subject and didn't want to necro it)

Pins 3 and 4 of SW2 (Power Switch) on the daughterboard are the ones you need to solder to. Pin 3 isn't directly on the switch, it's on the left side about 5mm below it. Pin 4 is the bottom right pin of the switch. Both are labeled.

Now, if anyone is even reading this... Can anyone tell me where I can find a Ground pin, and some spare +5V pins? I need to hook up a fan to the case, and I'm not sure what I can draw the power from.

 

CN11 is an unused USB header so if you have not yet used that to solder anything to it will have both 5v and ground available for you to use. You should be able to find a picture of cn11's location by searching the forum.

 

Putting an Aspire into an NES is a brilliant idea. Best of luck with it! :mrgreen:

For those power traces, check out tnkgrl's modding guides. If I remember correctly, she points out where to find those voltage traces in the bluetooth video.

 

Thanks for the tip. That will be perfect for adding a USB hub Now I just need to find a 12v so I can add a fan. I'll check tnkgrls guides to see if there's one.

 

You'll have to use a 5V fan. The only thing higher than 5V (Besides the input to the first regulator) is a 10V supply generated by a diode doubling circuit so there isn't much current available. Ahead of the first regulator you'll only have 11.1V (nominal) on battery power and around 18V on AC

 

I just discovered that CN11 although actually being a usb port was actually intended for another purpose. Looking at the schematics it's tagged as being reserved for an intel ssd. The schematics also show that the 5 pin side of the connector is NOT usb so don't bother soldering to that side (looks like all the pins that side are connected to ground).