Speaker replacement project

Well, I did the speaker upgrade. It was a pain in the ass. The one on the left just didn't want to fit. I was limited as to how far I could slide it back because my extra RAM was in the way. I trimmed off all the plastic I possibly could and it was still too thick. I even cut off the front of the rectangular guard and replaced it with a strip of foam rubber-type stuff. I got it down to where the motherboard just has a slight bulge where it bends around the speaker, but you can't tell when it's all assembled. And I used all the extra plastic to make some crazy mounts. I should've taken pictures. Oh yeah, and then on the right side I somehow broke the two screw holes. They're just little rings with threads on the inside that sit inside a plastic cylinder and they popped right out while I was trying to put a screw in. So I had to fill the holes with some J B Weld and drill new screw holes. Anyway, it's done. WOO! New speakers!

 

Well how are they, You through a few amp in there too? Beacuse if you didn't, speakers with requireing more power will draw more power.
Check out This Just make sure you build it for two channels. Those guys were not audiophiles, so they probably forgot.
Also the 386OP AMP is a good IC if used right.


That chip is small and powerful, could sound whiney if used improperly though.
Maybe we can draw power from the USB ports to power it.

 

Added my DV6000 speakers to the AAO today.

I had to add them on the outside of the bottom case in the same location as the original speakers because I had added an internal stylus which require the right speaker being relocated.

While the clarity of these speakers is better and the volume somewhat better, my original problem with wanting better volume remains...

 

Well as I said in a previous post. Whoever wants to do a speaker mod might want to play with a LM386 OP AMP

That's a good little chip specifically deigned for the purpose of amplifying audio.

 

What chip currently powers the speakers?

I am not ripping mine open again unless I have to! :lol:

I have heard much about the LM386 at http://www.diyaudio.com it is supposed to have a good S/N ratio and good power for its size, but it all depends on the current audio circuit and it's layout whether or not you can fit a new circuit in there.

Maybe someone adventurous can look and see which amp is used for audio amplification.

Meanwhile I will check the service manual and see if it is there.

Mike

EDIT:looks like the amplifier used is a Realtek ALC268 and amplifier G1441, looks like it is 1watt of bass thumpin' power, the speaker impedance is not mentioned so it may be safe to assume 8 ohms each...

The LM386 comes in 3 flavors now; LM386-1, LM386-2, LM386-3 with output power levels of 300, 500 and 700 milli-watts respectively. Less than the stock amp. a LM383 IC amp would be a better choice but is larger, it will provide up to 7 watts of output power

If the new speakers in this mod are still 8 ohms (hell even 4 ohms wouldn't hurt anything with such a tiny amp, probably clip before it hurts anything) the speakers may just have a higher sensitivity.

DOUBLE EDIT http://www.gmt.com.tw/product/datasheet/EDS-1441.pdf here is a link to the amplifier used, a 24 pin 2 watt (1 watt per speaker) amplifier good down to 4 ohms as I thought. In the datasheet it says it is a surface mount (not removable easily) and should have a heatsink or thermal pad, if you were going to put some 4 ohm speakers and crank it up full volume for a while I would recommend a thermal pad of some kind.

I don't forsee any mod on the audio circuit itself, speakers yes. amps no. Good idea though.

 

Maybe we can make an amp on a 1.5" breadboard. Stick it under the touchpad and connect it parallel to the current amp. Then add some better speakers in there or something. Or maybe We should put an Alienware laptop into a shrinking machine. :LOL: Just make sure it NOT This Shrinking Machine

 

I did this mod last night with the dv6000 speakers:

Works pretty well since the quality's better and took awhile to get the main board fitting in place. Still, the speakers are lacking in volume =T. Then it occured to me.....anyone think a pair of speakers from the nintendo ds lites would work better? The profiles of the speakers can fit anywhere: screen, side, oem areas, and they're quite loud. The only issues is that I have no clue as to how many watts and how much bass/volume they would get if they get attached to a PC connection....

found a link for just the speakers http://www.gaminggenerations.com/store/ ... ts_id=2153
better images here http://powergamingparts.com/dslitespeakers.html

 

I actually thought about that. umm, I forgot the speaker specs. I do have a pair lying around. Well, the old ds speakers. You can have them if you want. I don't know any projects I can do with them. Just pm me an address I can send 'em to if your interested.

 

lol, thanks for the offer scissors. Have 2 pairs to play with as well, so if any wants to test them....

And for those that did the speaker mods, don't forget to use the digital EQ from the sound device software. It made a huge difference in the sound for me.

 

Okay, I did it! I can add a few more refinements to the techniques, hope it helps someone.
I used DV6000 speakers as recommended, and am glad I did. The quality and volume are fantastic.
1) It was not very difficult to separate them at all. The "bar" connecting the two sides can be cracked open gently with a good bite from some pliers, and then peeled back bit by bit with a knife. Take care with the connecting wires that run inside.

2) The wire connecting them can be kept intact with ease if you're careful. Use a Dremel or a heated knife to cut the speakers off the bar, after the bar has been peeled back so you can move those wires out of the way, taking care to bend the wires back before each swipe. I actually used a micro torch to heat my blade and got a good ten or twelve seconds of easy cutting before I needed to reheat. Make sure the blade doesn't cool while embedded. It can be a real pain to remove then.

3) I had my machine already gutted and was able to use the original speakers as templates. The thickness of the new DV6000 speakers was a bit of a problem, but as for the width or length, read on...

4) Once I had the speakers pared down almost but not quite to size, I played the flame over the very edge, for a second or two, pointing the jet away from critical parts. The goal was to melt the rim, although as I found out with one, the plastic is very flammable. It was touch-and-go, but worth it because once softened, I just had to press the speakers into place between the screw posts for the plastic to give way and form notches around the posts. I positioned each speaker as indicated before. You are not heating the raised area on the front of the speaker. Heat the frame!

5) A tiny dab on each side with a mini hot glue gun fastens them down quite nicely, preventing them from rattling or buzzing against the mesh. Make sure to test fit with the motherboard first of course.

6) If you've preserved the wires, there is no need for resoldering. The left DV6000 speaker's wires are much too short to properly plug into the motherboard. That is, the wiring harness from the new speakers will not reach; it's biased strongly to one side. However, the plug as mentioned before is the same, just one needs to reverse the black and white from the left speaker. Look very closely at the plug. Each of the little pins is held in place by a tiny "finger" of black plastic, sort of a lever that makes it a one-way affair- you can insert a pin/wire, but can't back it out. With my knife, I was able to lift each finger and tug the wire out, including the copper pin/sleeve thing on the end. The fingers can only lift a tiny bit; more than half a millimeter or so and they'll crack. But you don't need to lift much. Just put gentle tension on the wire, one at a time, and they'll back out intact.

7) Use the harness that comes attached to the DV6000. Lift and tug out the two left speaker wires. Then do the same for the old wiring harness, paying attention to the color order. (Maybe snap a photo.) You'll need to unwrap the ribbon first, of course. Take the two wires freed from the old harness - they're a bit over ten centimeters. Cut them close to the old speaker.

8) I found it very hard to strip insulator from the old wires without snipping them. The janitor was walking by, and suggested I use my lighter/ microtorch. He was right! A two second blast from the tip of the flame at the cut end, while rotating, and then a quick grab with needle nose pliers, and the insulation slid right off in one piece. You need just a few millimeters. Expose the ends of both wires, give them a gentle twist with the pliers, and insert them into the copper sleeves on the end of the new speaker wires, the lefthand (too short) ones, and crimp carefully, then wrap in a scrap of electrical tape. For all that this sounds complicated, it's actually easier, as it takes just a few minutes, no soldering, and the only wire cutting was from the wires you are throwing out anyhow, so no loss if you screw up. After that, just close up your computer, taking care along the way.

Some cautions: Lifting those levers I mentioned was delicate work. I practiced first, and suggest you do too, on the connector from the original speakers. You'll see what I mean, that you can lift a bit and free the wire, and also that lifting just a little more than that cracks them off. Even if you crack a finger, I don't think it's a total loss. You can still slide in a new wire, and probably a spot of superglue would hold it steady.

Net result: New and incredible speakers, and an elegant looking wiring job, two wires completely intact, and two with just a twist of tape, firmly held by crimps.

Screwups: Two, both kind of dumb. I left a bit of electrical tape peeking inside against the grille. It's bright yellow. Oops.
Also, while working on this project I attracted a crowd, including a curious idiot :evil: who picked up the new speakers and pressed on the domes, denting them. I have an idea for getting the dents out, but my Mity-Vac is busted and until I get a new one... I don't think I'll post that fix, as it needs some specialized equipment and I don't think anyone else mentioned an inside-out dome problem anyhow.

 

Great post SJester! I can't believe people are still following my guide But I can say for sure, the dv6000 speakers on this AAO sound better and louder now than my stock speakers in my Aspire 3680, which is a full sized laptop. (I've done plenty of mods to that thing too :twisted

 

I've always fixed domes by applying some sticky tape to the dome and prying it out.
Worked every time for me. Try duct tape.

It works, honestly, Post if it worked for you.

 

Poking a small bent pin into the dent to pull it out like you would a car dent works fine. The effect on the sound will be unnoticeable.

BC

 

I think the tape remedy works better. There won't be any hole and there shouldn't be residue.
Trust me, I have done it alot and it worked ever time.

 

Great post SJester, but I lost you in step 4. What exatly were you melting? Was it on the speaker or inside the case? I've not tried this yet and while I've opened the case numerous times I've never taken note of how the speakers sit.
Thanks,
Mike

 

Sorry for the long delay, Mike. Was on other projects for a while.
The original speakers sit between two screw posts each. The replacement speakers, once freed from the soundbar into which they are integrated, are still slightly too long to fit between the posts. If you look closely you'll note that the extra length includes a narrow rectangular frame, or rim, that runs around the entire new speaker. Gently playing a flame over that, taking care to direct it away from sensitive portions of the speaker, softens it enough to deform if you press on it. When it gets to that point push it down between the posts and it will mold itself around them, locking the speaker in place. You can poke at the rim with a pencil tip to wrap it more securely around the posts; you cannot expect to wrap it more then halfway, but every bit helps.

 

i have an idea that may be a cheap n easy way to add a amp how about internalising one of these: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14823 its small and it runs off of a AAA battery so i don't think it pulls that much power what do you guys think?

 

Switch your default audio decoder to "AC3Filter" and in the property page max out the "Gain" setting.

No more need for any speaker mods... Sorry but save your time and money for other mods.

 

http://ac3filter.net/
http://ac3filter.net/project/1/releases
http://ac3filter.net/guides/ac3filter

 

Thanks for such a great guide, i will be doing this mod in the upcoming days. I dont feel like the stock speakers are too quiet, but at higher volume it tends to distort. Not to mention I have had some altec lansing products in the past and all have been very nice products.

When I was taking my One apart the other day, I believe I noticed that the stock speakers are 4 ohm resistance. Looking down at the One, the speaker on the right had, I guess, the foam protective covering removed and im positive it said 4 ohm for anyone that wondered, i know it was brought up earlier in this thread. Nonetheless, ill be using the same speakers that everyone else has used, sounds like it turned out good!